Spoiled for choice in the Skibbereen area
Skibbereen & District Chamber of Commerce is looking forward to a wonderful summer ahead and are delighted to welcome all visitors to West Cork. Visitors will be spoiled for choice from our beautiful beaches, easy to get to islands, water-based activities, cultural and historical places of interest, breath-taking scenery, magnificent walks, safe outdoor spaces and a vast array of cafés, restaurants, pubs and shops all selling local produce. It’s no wonder Skibbereen and its environs are a popular tourist destination.
The Tourist Office (run by the Chamber of Commerce) on North Street in Skibbereen has been open since mid-March and will be open for six days a week during the summer. Our manager Cian will be only too delighted to help you plan your stay with us in the coming months and to inform you of the local events and festivals taking place in the area. Skibbereen.ie also has a calendar of events up and our Facebook page Skibbereen – Home will also share details of things taking place.
The Town Voucher Scheme, an initiative run by Skibbereen & District Chamber of Commerce to support their Shop Local Campaign, is the perfect way to make shopping more convenient to visitors to West Cork.
The vouchers are available to purchase from specific retailers or online by going to www.skibbereen.ie and can be easily redeemed in a large number of participating Chamber businesses within the locality.
At the end of September, the Chamber will hold its annual Skibbereen Walking Festival, now in its eighth year. While the festival is based in Skibbereen, the majority of the walks promote the neighbouring districts in West Cork and along the Wild Atlantic Way including Baltimore, Ballydehob which take in the disused copper mines, Lough Hyne (where there is a wealth of marine ecology), Lick Hill, Union Hall, Schull, Drimoleague, Goleen, the islands off the coast, including Sherkin, Heir and Long Islands, as well as the Famine Cemetery in Skibbereen.
There is an obvious desire among people these days with regard to getting healthy and walking vacations are hugely popular. Couple this with the chance to learn rich cultural history, experience the local heritage and the uniqueness of the Skibbereen area, and you will have the makings of many memories.
BE INFORMED
The Tourist Office, which is run by Skibbereen and District Chamber of Commerce, at North Street, Skibbereen has been open since mid-March and will be open for six days a week during the summer. The manager Cian O’Mahony will only be too delighted to help you plan your visit to Skibbereen and the surrounding area. Just pop in or call him on 028 21489. Be sure to stock up on leaflets about all the local places of interest too, and when you are there why not purchase some Skibbereen Town Vouchers too. They are also available at Abbey Furniture and Violette House on Bridge Street and Main Street respectively.
FASTNET
Most visitors to West Cork make it a priority to see the majestic Fastnet Rock and lighthouse. Known as the ‘Teardrop of Ireland’, was, in years gone by, often the last thing people saw as they emigrated from Ireland to America. Easily spotted along the Mizen Peninsula, it beckons sailors and landlubbers alike. 2021 marked the 100-year anniversary of the famous raid on the lighthouse by members of the West Cork Brigade of the IRA during the War of Independence. A brave group embarked on this dangerous night-time mission in a small fishing boat to capture explosives stored there. Cape Clear Ferries have added a new 200-passenger fast ferry to their fleet to take people around the iconic lighthouse, and it has proved to be a huge success. Bookings were brisk all last year and this year should prove every bit as popular. The Fastnet tour has, in fact, been named among the top tours in Ireland by National Geographic and has topped the bill as an outstanding West Cork maritime tourism experience. The journey also provides a good opportunity to see some magnificent sea creatures such as whales and dolphins. For more information check out www.FastnetTour.com.
NATURE
Lough Hyne is a truly magical place and a ‘must-see’ on any visitor’s list. It is the only inland saltwater lake in Europe, and it is also Ireland’s first Marine Nature Reserve. Nestled in a fold of hills, just 5km south west of Skibbereen, off the Baltimore Road, it is a popular swimming and kayaking lake, with temperatures slightly above that of the sea. The woodland walk, up the nearby Knockomagh Hill, offers fantastic views over the lake, Cape Clear, Sherkin Island and beyond. That vantage point is frequently featured in social media posts as there’s an amazing sense of achievement having climbed the pathway to the top (approximately 40 mins on easy-medium terrain), not to mention the incredible, 360-degree vista. If you’re looking for something easier, but equally beautiful, there is an almost entirely flat, tree-lined, lakeside walk to Barlogue pier and back.
HERITAGE CENTRE
Skibbereen’s dual-purpose Heritage Centre is the perfect jumping off point for people who want a comprehensive introduction to the delights of the Lough Hyne nature reserve (located just outside Skibbereen). The centre is also home to the Great Famine Commemoration Exhibition, which has garnered rave reviews over the years. Located in the award-winning, beautifully restored old gasworks building on Upper Bridge Street, you will find excellent audio-visual displays, and the staff are a mine of information and insights on both topics. There is also a walking trail app available which guides walkers through the actual sites and stories of the famine in Skibbereen. Oscar-winning actor Jeremy Irons is just one of those to have lent his vocal talents to this project. The genealogy service at Skibbereen Heritage Centre has become a huge resource as people try and trace their West Cork ancestors. It is available online at www.skibbheritage.com, where you will find fully searchable databases that includes a graveyard survey, loan fund records, tithe books, estate records and a townlands database. Go to www.skibbheritage.com, or phone 028 40900 for more information or to book a consultation.
KAYAKING
For a truly unforgettable water-borne experience, try a moonlight kayaking trip with the multi award-winning Atlantic Sea Kayaking, or one of their daytime nature and wildlife tours off the wonderful West Cork coast, or even a seaweed foraging tour for something completely different! For more go to www.atlanticseakayaking.com.
MARKET
No visit to Skibbereen would be complete without a visit to the open-air farmers’ market, which takes place in the old mart yard on Saturday mornings. Here, you can purchase a huge range of local produce including fruit, vegetables, fish, meat, herbs, freshly baked breads and pastries, cheeses, honeys and jams as well as a massive range of craft products, and beautiful art work too. Lots of people are happy to go and queue at one of the delicious fresh coffee stalls, or to snack on crepes, breakfast baps, or brioche. On a good summer’s day, you can also be sure that there will be talented buskers there to entertain the crowds gathered around the picnic tables.
ISLANDS
Want to know what island life is like? Take a trip to Cape Clear or Sherkin, Heir Island or Long Island. The Irish-speaking island of Cape Clear, population around 130, is the most southerly inhabited Irish island, while Sherkin is home to a historic Franciscan Friary and the ruins of an O’Driscoll clan castle, both of which date back to the 14th century, and it has some lovely beaches too. Heir Island has a population of around 20 and also enjoys some lovely sandy beaches as well as a pizzeria and and award-winning sailing school, while Long Island now offers wild camping and food at Castaway East.
BLUEWAY
The Ilen River, which flows through Skibbereen, is a designated Blueway so if you feel like exploring it yourself pick up a brochure locally for details of kayaking/boating trails. Please take the necessary precautions before taking to the water and check the weather forecast, tides and always use the proper floatation devices. Always let someone know where you are going and what time you expect to return. In case of emergency call 112 or 999.
CYCLING
Fáilte Ireland consistently ranks Skibbereen as one of the ‘top three cycle hub towns’ in Ireland. Bike hire facilities and cycle maps are available in the town centre and there are a range of local cycle routes for all skill levels, with many of them on the quieter secondary roads, taking in some stunning coastal and countryside scenery. When you are in town, why not pay a visit to the Cycle Sense base of operations in the showgrounds? There you will find a group of people who are re-purposing bicycles for use in the community.
FISHING
There’s a wide variety of locations and all types of fishing on offer in and around the Skibbereen area. Many of the local coastal villages offer sea fishing options. For fishing closer to Skibbereen itself, you could not do better than Shepperton Lakes, which are located two miles east of the town, just off the main N71. The lakes are stocked with rainbow and brown trout as well as pike, and a state-of-the-art wheelchair accessible fishing platform was constructed there recently, allowing all-comers to enjoy the bountiful fishing in Shepperton. Permits are available locally, just look for the sign on the N71 road. Meanwhile, mackerel fishing, which is great fun for young and old alike when the tide is in, is always an option from mid to late summer. Check out Glandore Pier, Union Hall Pier or Sandy Cove for a spot of sea fishing but please be very careful, check the weather, tides and get local advice re safe locations/hazards first. The River Ilen is a medium-sized spate river about 21 miles long, and flows through some of the most beautiful scenery in West Cork. A large part of the river is managed by the River Ilen Anglers’ Club based in Skibbereen. Check locally in Countryside Sports on Townshend St for details.
FAMINE GRAVEYARD
The Skibbereen area was one of the worst affected by the Great Famine of 1845- 1852. It is at Abbeystrewry, on the Schull Road out of Skibbereen, that the mass graves of between 8,000 and 10,000 famine victims can be found. This lonely plot bears testament to the tragic consequences of the catastrophic failure of the potato crop in the area during the 1840s when the whole island of Ireland and particularly the West was decimated through famine and emigration. The tragedy is marked by a commemorative sculpture at the graveyard.
HISTORY FESTIVAL
The 2024 West Cork History Festival takes place from August 9th to 11th at Inish Beg Estate between Skibbereen and Baltimore. This year’s programme explores the themes of Aftermaths and Diasporas. In addition to talks and discussions the festival organisers will also be running the ever-popular festival field trips in collaboration with William Casey, Gormú, and Atlantic Sea Kayaking. Find out more on the website:
www.westcorkhistoryfestival.org
LUDGATE
Skibbereen’s famous Ludgate Digital Hub is a state-of-the-art co-working office space at Townshend Street in Skibbereen. To book a hot desk or private office space please visit www.ludgate.ie/book- a-hot-desk/. The Hub has a 1GB Internet connection, free tea and coffee, and a great working atmosphere. Access is available from 9 am to 6 pm, Monday to Thursday, and from 9 am to 5 pm on Friday. The Hub offers six meeting rooms and three phone booths, providing plenty of space for your private meetings and calls. Additionally, we are excited to announce the opening of our new event space. With a spacious design, it can accommodate up to 80 guests in theatre-style seating and 40 in a workshop-style setup, making it perfect for a wide range of events. Whether you’re planning a corporate gathering, company offsite, a rejuvenating seminar, or a wellness retreat, Ludgate’s versatile space can be tailored to meet your needs . For further information go to
www.ludgate.ie.
BEACHES
Two of the most popular local beaches include the Blue Flag beach of Tragumna and nearby Tralispean. Both beaches are safe and child-friendly with Tragumna having the added bonus of public toilets. Last year, ‘Harry’ the whale has made Tragumna more popular than ever as people watch, from a safe distance, as it surfaces to feed. His appearance has done much to encourage people to take to the seas to watch the greater than every number of whales and dolphins visible off our shoreline. Further afield towards Mizen Head you will find Barleycove (pictured), which is amongst Ireland’s most beautiful beaches with lovely golden sand and is also home to a surf school and a hotel.
GOLF
Located just 3km from the town, the Skibbereen and West Carbery Golf Club is open to everyone, but pre-booking, on 028 21227, is essential. The 18-hole, 5,967yrd course is set against the backdrop of some stunning views of the surrounding countryside and the 19th hole – the clubhouse – is a great place to unwind afterwards. Lessons by Kieran Lynch are also available on a daily basis, but they too must be pre-booked.
RUNNING
There are all sorts
of great running routes around the Skibbereen area. If you are looking for an easy, flat jog then why not take a ring-route around the town. But if you’d prefer something a little more challenging, then check out the woodland trails at nearby Rineen Wood, which is also the location for weekly 5km park runs. If you fancy doing a parkrun, it is advisable to check www.parkrun.com or check locally in advance. For those looking to run on quiet country roads, please remember to wear high-vis clothing and take all the necessary precautions when it comes to traffic.
FITNESS FACILITIES
Every town in the country now offers exercise facilities ranging from outdoor workstations to sports pitches and fully-equipped gyms and Skibbereen is no exception. The sports and fitness centre, which has recently had energy-saving solar panels installed, has a fully-equipped gym, but it also has an exercise studio and a magnificent sports hall. The centre now boasts an astro-turf facility for outdoor soccer and basketball, both of which can be booked by walk-in clients. Another new project includes providing wheelchair access and a safer pathway to the astro-turf amenities. The centre – phone 028 22624 – is open from 8am to 9.30pm from Monday to Friday and from 9am until 5pm on Saturdays, and Sundays are from 9am until 3pm, which makes it a fantastic resource for visitors looking to maintain their fitness regime during their holidays.
ARTS AND MUSIC FESTIVALS
This year, sees another amazing programme for the annual Skibbereen Arts Festival. The programme, which runs from July 26th to August 3rd, is available on the festival’s new website: www.skibbereenartsfestival.com. The festival will have the usual mix of music, theatre, film, visual arts and spoken words, as well as a street party and much more. The highlight this year will be the opening street party on Friday the 26th. This year the theme is the Olympics. Another highlight is a concert with the acclaimed Jerry Douglas (pictured) and Muireann Bradley.
Meanwhile, the vintners in Skibbereen are organising a return of the annual Soul and Blues Festival. This year’s festival will take place on Friday August 16th, Saturday August 17th and Sunday August 18th. The highlights this year feature include Buck Taylor, Mafia Cats, Fenton and Phantoms, Delta Dogs and the Dizzy Blues. Again, this programme offers 14 free gigs for locals and visitors to enjoy.
SEA ANGLING
If the thrill of deep-sea fishing is your thing, charter boats and fishing trips run out of Union Hall, Baltimore and Schull. Due to the fact that the seas around these parts are warmed by the Gulf Stream, you will find a wide variety of game fish such as cod, skate, pollack, blue shark, tuna and bass.
LOOPS & TRAILS
A project organised by Skibbereen Tidy Towns has outlined three interlinked loop walks – the Abbey Loop, the Rock Loop (incorporating the newly landscaped Rock amenity) and the Compass Loop – around the historic market town of Skibbereen. These walks begin at the Heritage Centre, and visit historic sites and offer panoramic views of the town and Ilen River estuary. For more information call into the Tourist Office or the Heritage Centre. Meanwhile, Fastnet Trails has created a series of scenic walks of varying lengths over an 80km stretch between Lisheen and Schull. A ramble along these mostly tarmac backroads and the old green Butter Road offers the walker a unique tapestry of landscapes and seascapes. The ease and comfort of the routes allow walkers to enjoy the abundant flora and fauna and connect with the past as they pass medieval castles, churches and old burial grounds. Brochures of each of the eight walks – which start from four different trailheads along the Mizen Peninsula – are available locally. These walks are not strenuous, but they vary in length, so be sure to choose a route that is age and time appropriate.
'THE ROCK'
A new outdoor Amphitheatre in Skibbereen has recently been officially opened to the public. The project, spearheaded by Cork County Council demonstrate a commitment to enriching community spaces for residents and visitors alike. ‘The Rock’ in Skibbereen underwent substantial upgrades, transforming it into a destination for leisure and enjoyment. These enhancements include developing an outdoor Amphitheatre and installing 850m of footpaths. The park is on an elevated area east of the town at the rear of North Street and High Street, with panoramic views of Skibbereen and the surrounding areas. Notably, it contains the remnants of a number of small stone-cut cottages dating to Famine times, and a circular Famine Memorial honours the significance of the site.
WALKING
West Cork has great opportunities for walking and Skibbereen Walking Group (SWG) is one of several groups and clubs offering walks in the area. Walks are advertised on the SWG Facebook page, skibbereenwalkinggroup.com and in the Skibbereen notes page in The Southern Star. At the end of September, Skibbereen and District Chamber of Commerce will hold its annual Skibbereen Walking Festival, which is now in its eighth year and will feature eight walks. Although the festival – which runs this year from Friday September 27th to Sunday 29th – is based in Skibbereen, the majority of the walks promote neighbouring districts. The walks showcase some of the best scenery on West Cork’s Wild Atlantic Way and always features an excursion to one of the islands.
SKIBBEREEN'S LEGENDARY ROWING CLUB
Skibbereen's Fintan McCarthy and Paul O’Donovan after winning gold at the 2023 World Rowing Championships in Belgrade.
The Ilen river, which runs through Skibbereen, is home to the hugely successful Skibbereen Rowing Club. The club was made famous on the international stage by the 2016 Olympic Games silver medal-winning brothers Gary and Paul O’Donovan, and it has since hit greater heights – at the Tokyo Olympics in 2021 three Skibbereen rowers won medals, Paul O’Donovan and Fintan McCarthy (pictured) with Ireland’s first Olympic rowing gold, while Emily Hegarty won bronze. Given this is an Olympic year, expect plenty of excitement in Skibbereen and West Cork when the Games in Paris get underway. Other notable rowers over the years include Eugene and Richard Coakley, Timmy Harnedy, Shane O’Driscoll, Mark O’Donovan, Denise Walsh and Aoife Casey. World-famous rowing coach Dominic Casey is a key man behind the club’s and Ireland’s rowing success. The club is located just a couple of kilometres outside Skibbereen on the river road going to Old Court and Baltimore. See www.skibbereenrowingclub.com for more details.
SKIBBEREEN LIBRARY
The abolition of fees and an expanded range of services – including the loan of a wide range of books, audiobooks and DVDs for children, teenagers and adults – has renewed interest in the library service in recent years. Skibbereen Library, located on North Street is a fine example with a large selection to choose from. The fact that you can now borrow from one library and make a return in a different library means it has got to be on staycationer’s list of things to do especially as there are so many to choose from across the region including Bandon, Bantry, Carrigaline, Castletownbere, Clonakilty, Dunmanway, Kinsale, Macroom, Cape Clear, Schull, Sherkin and Skibbereen. Each library also offers a collection of reference books, including a local history collection, for use within the library. In addition, there are E-books, E-audio books and E-magazines that are also available to library members. Libraries also offer access to free internet on one of the ‘in-house’ computers – ideal for research while you’re in the area.
PIRATES AND FAIRIES AT INISH BEG
Inish Beg is a 97-acre organic estate on an island in the Ilen Estuary on the way to Baltimore from Skibbereen. It is famous for hosting weddings and important local events. It has been voted one of the best gardens in Ireland and is popular because of its innovative trails for adults and children too. The latest is the Presidents of Ireland trail that is aimed at adults, but the children love visiting because they are given maps to search for pirates and fairy houses. They can also search for native animals as part of the three trails at Inish Beg estate. Each of the trails challenges children to find and name the animals and characters featured on their map and they are given a reward for completing them successfully. www.inishbeg.com.
WHALES AND DOLPHINS
The arrival of Harry the 45ft humpback whale at Tragumna in 2023 was a recent highlight in an area already famous for it’s great whale and dolphin sightings. Hundreds of people flocked to Tragumna (about 7km outside Skibbereen) to watch as it came extremely close to the shore to feed. The activity in local waters has, since then, been busier than ever and the whale watching tours off our shores has been brisk as a result. But it is not just humpback whales, the seas around West Cork attract a diversity of wildlife including minke and fin whales, common dolphins and harbour porpoises. Occasional sightings of killer whales occur, whilst Atlantic white-sided dolphins, common and grey seals can be seen throughout the year. Excursions give people the opportunity to see turtles and blue sharks, while basking sharks (which can grow up to 10m in length) are very common. Trips usually last around four hours and depart from various harbours and piers in the area. In high season, booking is essential as the tours fill up fast!
PLAYGROUND AND SKATEPARK
Skibbereen has long had a popular children’s playground (located on the right as you head into town from the Cork/Leap side). In recent years however, it has gone ‘up a notch’ with improvements being made including the addition of a state-of-the-art skatepark. Used by younger children on their bikes and scooters and older children and teens on their skates and skateboards, it has proven hugely popular since its completion. This park area on Cork Road is also home to a range of outdoor gym equipment as well as tennis and basketball courts.
ADVENTURE RACE
Skibbereen Charity Adventure Race (SCAR) will mark its 11th anniversary on Saturday October 19th. Organised by Skibbereen Lions Club, the adventure race has generated c€275,000 over the years, 100% of which has been used to support a diverse range of local charities and good causes. There are two levels for people to participate in. The SCAR Taster category over 23km involves a 6km run and a 17km cycle. The SCAR Sport category is more challenging as it covers a distance of 58.5km that involves a 13km run, a 44km cycle and a 1.5km kayak. For full details or to enter visit www.thescar.ie. See Facebook for more info or if you’d like to volunteer as a marshal email [email protected]
GORMÚ ECO-ADVENTURES
Gormú is a company providing daily eco-adventures in West Cork. Contact Conor on 083 0153545 or email: [email protected]. They have done a great job in researching the best attractions in West Cork, and has lots to offer for people who are looking for a package outing, or a quintessential West Cork experience during their visit to West Cork. The events vary from dawn pilgrimages and swims to scenic and wildlife tours at Toe Head. Bike adventures are also part of their offering, as well as a tour that offers insights into place names and the legends behind them.
ARTS
Uillinn: West Cork Arts Centre is an incredible resource in the heart of Skibbereen town. This year’s summer programme includes the West Cork Arts Centre Members and Friends group exhibition, which showcases work by artists from across West Cork and beyond at all stages of their careers and includes paintings, drawings, sculpture, photography, print and mixed-media works. From July 27th to October 12th there will be a major retrospective exhibition of the work of West Cork-based artist and writer Brian Lalor. Curated by art historian Vera Ryan and including work from the seventies to the present, this exhibition covers a period spanning almost six decades. The centre will also be hosting concerts, talks, book launches, performances, film screenings, workshops and events for locals and visitors alike. Check westcorkartscentre.com or follow on Facebook and Instagram. You can also phone 028 22090 or simply call in when you are in town.
CRÉ POTTERY
Paint your own pottery at Market Street in Skibbereen. Choose from hundreds of pieces – mugs, plates, unicorns and robots to name just a few. For booking requirements and guidelines visit www.crepotterystudio.com for further details. Opening hours for summer are from Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 5pm and on Sundays from 12pm to 4pm. Take-home kits are also available which can make a rainy day at home – or a party – so much more enjoyable and creative.
TREEHOUSE PLAY AREA
The Treehouse at the Curragh Commercial Park, at Marsh Road in Skibbereen is an indoor play and café. It is a safe, exciting, adventure-filled play area for children and a comfortable and relaxing space for parents and grown-ups. The Treehouse comes with three separate play structures to cater for all different age ranges which include a junior, toddler and crawl area. To add even more fun, the play centre is also home to a cafe called the Treehouse Cafe. It is open seven days a week 10 to 6pm except Monday from 10 to 2.30pm.
Baltimore
The beautiful village of Baltimore hardly needs a recommendation given that it is one of the most famous visitor destinations in the country. One of the things that makes it so easily recognisable – from land and from sea – is the Beacon at the south entrance to the harbour. Of course, the imposing O’Driscoll Castle in the centre of the village is another famous landmark that adds to the overall appeal of Baltimore.
Another attraction that is perhaps less visible but possibly more famous is Dede the two-star Michelin restaurant owned and operated by chef Ahmet Dede, which has been named restaurant of the year by the Restaurants Association of Ireland. It certainly has put Baltimore on the map! In fact, a big part of Baltimore’s appeal is the variety of food on offer in local hostelries. There are many wonderful al fresco dining options overlooking a stunning seascape and sunsets.
There’s plenty of choice in terms of accommodation too, and Baltimore is a great jumping-off point for some of West Cork’s most visited islands, namely Sherkin and Cape Clear. From the harbour itself, there is an extensive range of activities such as sailing, whale watching, deep sea fishing, scuba diving and ferry trips to the islands. What adds real colour and excitement to the village during the summer are the many courses run by the local sailing club. It also boasts an indoor swimming pool but there are lots of nearby beaches to choose from too.
Of course, the village playground – which has to be one of the most colourful and well situated in all of West Cork – is a great ‘go to’ place for parents wishing to keep their children amused for hours at a time. The local tidy towns committee deserve great recognition for all of the work they do in making all of the amenity areas look resplendent in terms of cleanliness, colour and floral displays.
BEACON
There are many stunning walks around Baltimore but no visit to the village would be complete without a walk to the Beacon. From the Cove, at the end of Baltimore village, take the winding road to the top of the hill, just making sure not to stand too close to the cliff edge because prevailing winds can pose a risk. Structures like the Beacon and signal towers like that at nearby Spain (a townland just outside Baltimore) were erected all around the Irish coast by the British in the early 19th century when they feared a European invasion. The panoramic view tells its own story. It also explains why this location is such a popular spot with photographers and artists. Just outside the harbour near the Beacon is a regular spot for sightings of whales, dolphins and basking sharks, so keep your eyes peeled!
SEA MEMORIAL
Visitors to Baltimore should check out the ‘heart of the sea’ memorial adjacent to the harbour master’s office (just near the south pier where the ferries dock). The work of art by Helen Walsh and Paddy McCormack not only honours the heroism of the RNLI’s life-saving volunteers, it also honours the memory of all those who have been lost to the sea. The Croí na Mara work of art is in copper, bronze and stainless steel and ties into all the elements. People can look out to sea through the heart which is made in the shape of two waves meeting at the top.
WALKS
Visitors may wish to sign up for one of the Heritage Walking Tours of Baltimore. Starting at Baltimore Castle, the seat of the O’Driscoll Clan, take a leisurely stroll around the historical village of Baltimore with former Clan Chieftain Paul O’Driscoll. During the one-and-a-half-hour tour, you will learn about the history of the area, with stories of the village from pre-historic settlements to modern times.
Highlights include a look at Christianity which pre-dates St Patrick, the 800-year history of Baltimore Castle from 1215 and details of its restoration which was completed in 2005, a look at the O’Driscoll Clan and their international adventures, piracy and the graphic details of the Sack of Baltimore in 1631, the fishing industry through the ages and stories of internationally acclaimed residents and their connection to Baltimore. Booking is required – ask locally or enquire at the castle.
ON THE WATER
Baltimore is renowned for all sorts of water-based activities from sea safari trips where you could see anything from seals and dolphins to huge whales, trips to the iconic Fastnet Rock or one of Carbery’s Hundred Isles, diving expeditions, kayaking and perhaps most notably of all, sailing. Baltimore Sailing Club is one of the most successful in the country and hosts a huge calendar of events throughout the year and particularly during the summer season. Enquire locally or see www. baltimoresailingclub.ie for more info.
BALTIMORE MARKET
Baltimore Community Market, a new initiative encouraging sustainability, has been launched in Baltimore village. Hosted in Baltimore Community Hall, this market runs every Sunday from 11am till 2pm with a real focus on local produce and producers of the area. The market hosts a variety of fresh produce and crafts, and is suitable for all the family.
WILD ATLANTIC POOL
Baltimore’s swimming pool – The Wild Atlantic Pool – is open to locals and tourists alike and is a noted attraction on The Wild Atlantic Way, particularly on wet days! The low chlorine water is from their own well and is heated to a comfortable 30 degrees. If you want a bit more heat there’s the sauna and steam room; or you can work up a sweat in the fully equipped gym. There are various classes to drop into throughout the week including Active Plus and aqua aerobics; and you don’t have to book for the pool. The centre runs Summer Camps for kids and you can even hire the entire pool for a private children’s party. Weekly schedules are available on their website www.baltimorepool.ie and across all social media.
BALTIMORE RINGFORT
A subgroup of Baltimore Community Council has been established to work on a long-term project to clear and preserve a ringfort at Church Strand in Baltimore. Archaeologist Tony Miller speculated that the Baltimore r ingfort could actually be something much rarer than the typical ringfort – he surmised that it might actually be a Bronze Age fort dating from around 2000BC.
TWITCHERS
The book ‘The Natural History of Cape Clear 1959 to 2019’ – by Steve Wing, the warden of Cape Clear Bird Observatory explains why Cape Clear is one of the best spots in Europe to see American vagrant birds. Species that fly from North America to South America for the winter get caught up in the hurricane systems and get blown across the Atlantic. It is because Cape Clear is one of the first landfalls that makes it a resting place for birds and a mecca for birdwatchers. The island’s observatory – which is run by BirdWatch Ireland – is the only full-time bird observatory in the whole of Ireland, and is attracting more visitors every year. Birdwatch Ireland organises regular walks in the region, and sometimes day trips include picnic days out for all the family. For further details see www.birdwatchirelandwestcork.ie
BALTIMORE CASTLE
Baltimore Castle, also known as Dún na Séad, is a privately owned 13th century Hall House on the Wild Atlantic Way. Built by the Normans in 1215, it is located in the heart of the historical fishing village of Baltimore, West Cork. Throughout the ages the castle has a long history of interesting owners and occupiers including the original Norman settler Sleynie, the local O’Driscoll clan and the infamous Fineen the Rover, the Spanish Crown, Cromwellian forces as well as many others. Locals Patrick and the late Bernie McCarthy acquired Baltimore Castle in 1997 when it was in a state of ruin and lovingly restored it over the course of eight years. Baltimore Castle is open to the public throughout the summer. Visitors can learn about the history of the castle and see first-hand the results of the amazing restoration works. It’s also an amazing place for a coffee and a cake available from the coffee dock in the garden.
Ballydehob & Schull
BALLYDEHOB
The coastal village of Ballydehob is picture-postcard perfect. First-time visitors could anticipate as much because the drive from Skibbereen, heading west, offers stunning views of the islands of Roaringwater Bay. Touring visitors – who take the time to stop and check it out – are initially drawn by the brightly-coloured buildings, the unique shopping experience, and the al fresco dining options. But the real heart of the village is its community spirit and its many music festivals throughout the season.
SCHULL
Schull is probably one of the finest villages in West Cork. Those who like to browse quirky, interesting shops and galleries will find this village a treat. Schull’s lively selection of pubs, cafés and restaurants has also made it a kind of hipster heaven. Many actors, writers, artists and musicians have decamped to Schull, drawn by its beauty and relaxed vibe. Irish actor, Paul Mescal, is just one of the latest high-profile people to buy a house in the area, while American actor Aidan Quinn described the Fastnet film Festival as one of the coolest festivals anywhere in the world.
MOUNT GABRIEL
At 407m, this has to be the highlight for walkers. The fact that it is the highest summit in the area means the top of the hill is used by the Irish Aviation Authority to house their transatlantic radar equipment, hence its two iconic ‘spheres’. You can walk or you can drive to the top to enjoy the spectacular views, but drivers are advised to proceed with caution.
BEACHES
There are plenty of beaches to choose from in and around Schull, all within walking distance. Cadogan’s Strand which is a green flag beach, and many other little coves all along the west side of Schull Harbour. Or you may prefer to swim in the pool in Schull Harbour Hotel after taking the children to the refurbished playground across the road.
PLANETARIUM
Since 1989, Schull Planetarium has been giving educational, fun and informative science shows to the general public. You are invited to visit the hemispherical dome with an amazingly realistic and accurate reproduction of the star-studded sky. www.schullplanetarium.com.
DANNO
Ballydehob man Danno O’Mahony is an icon in the world of professional wrestling.
When in Ballydehob, don’t forget to check out the Danno O’Mahony statue in the heart of the village. Danno is probably Ballydehob’s most famous son. Long before the likes of Conor McGregor, he was a wrestler who famously won the NWA world title in Boston on June 30th, 1935. With an incredible physique and huge strength Danno was known as the ‘Irish Whip’ in celebration of his famous throwing technique and one of the local pubs carries the same name.
PLAYGROUND
Ballydehob is blessed to have a truly wonderful playground that is served by a spacious car park, and located safely off-road under the magnificent 12-arch bridge. It even has a few magical and mystical creatures dotted around the site!
MARKET
Every Sunday, from 10am until 2pm, during the summer season you can visit the renowned Schull Country Market and be delighted by the array of locally produced goods from food, crafts, home bakes, pottery, paintings, jewellery, coffee, takeaways and much more. All of the stallholders live within a forty-mile radius of Schull, so you can be sure that what you choose really is local and you get to actually meet the people who grew, produced, baked and made the products.
STAR WARS
The Mizen Peninsula, and Brow Head in particular, temporarily formed part of a ‘galaxy far, far away’ when scenes from the Star Wars movies were filmed there. Locals and fans alike were thrilled to feel the ‘Force’ when none other than Luke Skywalker himself – Mark Hamill – and co-star Daisy Ridley flew into Cork and spent time in West Cork for the filming.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Ballydehob is fortunate to have Bank House, the former AIB bank, which was bought by the Community Council, and is now used as a tourist office, as well as a community centre. Recently, Bank House got a complete energy retrofit and upgrade, making it one of the most energy efficient buildings in the area. Bank House also features an art museum and that is well worth an hour of anyone’s time because it sets out how Ballydehob became a creative hub for West Cork in the 1970s.
MIZEN
The Mizen Head Signal Station and Café is well worth a visit. It offers three experiences in one: The Visitor Centre in the Irish Lights Signal Station, the 99 Steps and the Famous Arched Bridge. The views of the south and west coasts are stunning, and there are souvenirs and sustenance to be had from the shop and newly-extended restaurant in the visitor centre. The new addition is part of a €500,000 investment across a range of projects that will see many of the centre’s amenities and infrastructure improved. The historic buoy, which for years had been somewhat neglected and exposed to the elements, is now a major feature inside the new restaurant.
Another attraction is a specially commissioned drone film of the area that runs throughout the day on a newly created video wall that measures 3.5m by 2.16m.
OUTDOORS
Ballydehob and Schull are wonderful places for walking and cycling at any time of the year. The Fastnet Trails are a series of scenic walks for families and enthusiasts close to the coast of Roaring Water Bay, covering a total distance of 80km, from Lisheen in the east to Schull in the west. There are Trailheads at Lisheen, Kilcoe, Ballydehob and Schull. These walks are not strenuous, but as their lengths vary, choose a route to suit age and time available.
WATER SPORTS
The Fastnet Marine and Outdoor Education Centre is a certified sailing and water sports centre located on the water’s edge in stunning Schull Harbour. It has already set out its calendar of sailing and multi-activity adventure courses and it is also planning some new sea kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding opportunities. Catering for all sailing requirements including dinghy courses, day sails, keelboat courses, coaching etc, it also offers powerboat courses. Come along with all the family and you are guaranteed an action-packed and fun-filled experience. See www.schullsailing.ie. Schull Sea Safari offers a unique experience of West Cork and its islands from the sea. Its departure points, Schull and Colla Pier offer an unparalleled gateway to the Atlantic and the West Cork Islands for kayaking, whale watching and leisure trips in Roaring Water Bay. See www.schullseasafari.ie. SKS, Sea Kayaking in Schull, is a family-run business offering sea kayaking tours, kids camp and family fun sessions. Pre-booking is essential. See www.facebook.com/SeaKayakingSchull.
12-ARCH BRIDGE
As you enter Ballydehob from the Skibbereen side, you will see a spectacular 12-arch stone viaduct that is a relic of the West Carbery tramway and light railway. The bridge formed part of a narrow-gauge railway line that ran from Skibbereen to Schull, a line that was opened in September 1886, but never really made a profit. Sadly, it was closed in December 1945 leaving us with this enduring reminder. There is still a lovely walk around the area which incorporates crossing the bridge and the amazing views from the height.
TENNIS
Local and visiting tennis enthusiasts will be pleased to learn that one of the old tennis courts in Schull, overlooking the Harbour, has been completely refurbished and resurfaced offering users a much smoother game. Meanwhile, the second court has been given a different kind of makeover – it now has an Astro Turf surface that children find ideal for a game of kickabout. Meanwhile, the sum of €50,000 has been allocated for the resurfacing of the two tennis courts near the community hall in Ballydehob.
TOURIST OFFICE
The former AIB building in Schull, which was gifted to the community by a local philanthropist, is open until the first week of September to serve as a tourist information office with leaflets and lots of practical information on everything to see and do on the Mizen Peninsula. The tourist information office, which is run by volunteers under the initiative of Schull and District community Council, is open Monday to Friday 10am until 4pm; and Saturday from 10am until 1pm.
Castletownshend | Leap | Glandore | Union Hall
Castletownshend
One of West Cork’s smallest villages, historic Castletownshend, still attracts a staggering number of day-trippers, some of whom go there just to see the Harry Clarke stained glass windows at St Barrahane’s Church. Castletownshend is a wonderful place to enjoy the fabulous food and a walk down the famously steep hill to the water’s edge and back up again will help work off any indulgences.
Recently, The Guardian newspaper gave it a glowing review. It listed the historic village as one of Ireland’s top ten most charming villages. The 196 residents of Castletownshend – which developed around a 17th-century castle that was built by Richard Townsend – are hoping the review will bring a lot of people into the area.
With the village’s wastewater treatment works recently completed, and road resurfacing done, the place is currently looking its best.
Glandore
The coastal village of Glandore is in an idyllic setting with some truly excellent watering holes, and access to some great beaches nearby. Its unrivalled sea views give it a distinctly Mediterranean feel, especially as members of the Glandore Sailing Club do their thing and add to the attractiveness of what is already an impossibly pretty tableau.
Union Hall
Union Hall – which looked resplendent in the recently released hit Netflix series ‘Bodkin’ – is a small fishing village located on the western side of Glandore Harbour but comes fully formed with a supermarket, a fish shop, pubs, playground, eateries and a number of bed and breakfasts. Along with Rosscarbery, it was also famously one of the two principal villages in the David Puttnam-produced ‘War of The Buttons’ film.
Leap
The phrase ‘up back of Leap’ is widely used throughout West Cork as a kind of explanation of the anomaly that Leap is somehow a gateway to so many other places. But it is well worth a stop off for great food, gigs, and its playground for children. Visitors can also enjoy a walk in Myross or Dromilihy woods or take a moment to reflect in the beautiful amenity park with its views over the harbour, on the Skibbereen side of the village. In recent years, Leap has become noted as the home of Cecas (Centre of Excellence for Climate and Action Sustainability) in the old Myross Wood retreat centre. Cecas hosts conferences, workshops and events demonstrating how communities can develop biodiversity and climate action programmes. It’s also just a lovely place for a walk!
DROMBEG
Drombeg Stone Circle is one of the most visited megalithic sites in Ireland. The site, which is also known as The Druid’s Altar, is a small axial stone circle located about 2km from the centre of Glandore village and can be included as part of a fantastic loop walk.
TREES
The two sycamore trees in the middle of Castletownshend have got to be the most unusual feature of any village in terms of their location, right in the middle of the road, and they are so highly thought of that one of the local distilleries has named a range of its spirits ‘Two Trees’ in their honour. They also make for the most spectacular Christmas trees when lit up in December!
ON THE SEA
It will come as no surprise that water-based activities are BIG in Union Hall, with local operators offering three to four-hour guided tours, with family kayaking adventures being a speciality. Whale watching and sea angling charters are some of the reasons that people continue to return to Union Hall time and time again. A number of these trips and tours depart from nearby Reen Pier – ask locally for details.
MEMORIAL
When you are in Union Hall do take the time to visit the wonderfully sensitive memorial to the fishermen who lost their lives in the Tit Bonhomme tragedy in January 2012. Casualties at sea are not something that has defined this village, but its heroic response has. It is not for nothing that the people who supported the month- long search with homes and hospitality were presented with a People of the Year Award in September 2012.
AMENITY PARK
Leap amenity park is worth a visit just for the spectacular view it offers along the estuary alone. The recently developed area, which features a community garden, seating area, and a viewing platform that is fully wheelchair and buggy- accessible. The facility first took shape when Leap resident, the late Michael Crowley, came up with the idea that the council should purchase a piece of land at the head of the Union Hall Estuary from the Sacred Heart Missionaries at Myross Wood.
UNION HALL WALKWAYS
There are some beautiful walks around Union Hall, suitable for varying abilities. The Village Heritage Walk is 2.9km and takes in the village, Causeway, Keelbeg Harbour and the pier. The Lake Walk is 7.6km, leaving the Causeway and climbing the steep hill after the old Post Office, taking in views of Poulgorm Bridge and Rabbit Island, before visiting Carrighilly, once a fishing village of 700 inhabitants, and Lough Cluhir. There is also the 10.2km Three Island Walk, 12.5km Stags View Walk and 11.7km Reen Walk. See unionhallwalks.ie for full details.
CHURCHES
There are two churches in Castletownshend village, both called St Barrahane’s – one a Catholic church located a mile from the village centre, and a Church of Ireland, which is located at the bottom of the hill in the village. The latter is famous for having not one, but two, Harry Clarke stained glass windows, which are a major tourist attraction in their own right. The church is accessible seven days a week. While you are there check out the historic graveyard, which includes the burial plot of Edith Sommerville and Martin Ross, authors of ‘The Irish RM’. There’s also a mass grave for victims of the Lusitania tragedy in the graveyard, and an oar from the ship’s lifeboat is on display inside the door of the church.
ALPACA WALK WEST CORK
Recharge your spirit on a scenic coastal alpaca walk! Meet these gentle animals at Seaside Alpacas near Unionhall and lead one yourself on a guided walk along the coast with lovely views from Galley Head to Toe Head. Take part in our Alpaca Fibre Craft and you can even learn to spin some alpaca yarn yourself. Farm visitor programmes run all year round, usually starting at 2.30pm and on weekends, holidays and July and August also daily at 11am. Booking is essential! Ring, text or whatsapp Benjamin on +353(0)830670776 or email to [email protected]. www.seasidealpacas.com
KNOCKDRUM
With well-signposted pedestrian access from the main Skibbereen Road into Castletownshend, the Knockdrum circular stone fort has to be seen to be believed. It’s no wonder the fort, pillar stone, souterrain, and cup-marked boulder on the side has been listed as a national monument. Almost 30m in diameter, and with walls that are three metres wide, it is a remarkable and freely accessible amenity. But it is its vantage point at the top of a hill and looking out over the sea that leaves an indelible impression. When you are there, be sure to look across the land, away from the sea, and you will see in the distance The Three Fingers, which is the reputed burial place of a druid. And an up-close inspection of that particular site will allow people to see the Ogham writing on the fingers.
BRIDGE
Poulgorm Bridge, on the regional road to Glandore, Rosscarbery and Leap, is worth a holiday snap or two because it is only one lane wide, so traffic must wait for the bridge to be clear before crossing. The bridge, which was built in the 1890s, also famously featured in David Puttnam’s 1994 film, ‘War of the Buttons’.
GLANDORE GARDENS
The gardens in the middle of Glandore village are a tranquil oasis of peace and relaxation. Set on a hill, they overlook the harbour and during the summertime, there will always be something to watch on the water, whether it’s sailing boats, rowing boats, power boats, fishing trawlers or super yachts. You might even get lucky and see a dolphin or two. 2022 saw the unveiling of a memorial to local man Sean Hayes, West Cork’s first TD (member of the Irish parliament). Picnic tables and public toilets make these gardens an ideal spot to stop off for a break.
CECAS AT MYROSS WOOD HOUSE
CECAS is West Cork’s Centre for Climate Action and Sustainability at Myross Wood House, located on the western side of Leap village. Set within 30 acres of spectacular grounds, including mature woodland, fields, formal gardens and coastal habitat, the centre aims to provide practical solutions to the challenges of climate change in the form of information, training and environmentally-themed events. The grounds, which are open seven days a week, are maintained by an enthusiastic and committed group of volunteers and include two restored woodland walks. The centre also has two eclectic pop-up shops on site, a vibrant community garden, child-friendly walks, and ample parking. Visit www.cecas.ie to book hot-desks, accommodation and venue hire. News and information on upcoming events can also be found via the CECAS mailing list and on Facebook and Instagram (@cecas.ie). Queries can be emailed to [email protected].
PARK
The Black Field right in the middle of the village of Union Hall is another major resource because it is open to the public. One of its attractions that might be of interest to children is its bug hotel, but there is also a park to walk around and a playground, plus tennis courts, and two picnic tables where people can sit and enjoy some al fresco dining.
DROMILLIHY WOODS
Located just east of Leap on the road to Connonagh/Rosscarbery, Dromilihy is a gem hidden in plain sight. A 20-30-minute loop walk around this mature woodland will put you in form for anything, and the kids will love to spot and count the fairy houses along the way. The path is in very good repair overall but be prepared for a couple of short, steep, but very manageable inclines.
GREEN SKETCHING
Looking to have a relaxing time while you visit West Cork? Book a Green Sketching workshop with Anne Harrington Rees and experience how the simple act of doodling outdoors, capturing the joy and beauty of nature, can help you relax, unwind, lift your spirits and improve your well-being. Green Sketching workshops with Anne take place in gardens, woodlands or at the beach. The two hour workshops can be tailored to suit different ages and physical ability. All drawing materials are provided. More details on anneharringtonreesdesigns.ie, or follow on Instagram @anneharringtonrees. For bookings/enquiries, email: [email protected]
ARCHAEOLOGY
There are lots of archaeological sites in the area, such as ringforts, a souterrain and a lime kiln in Ballincolla townland, plus the remains of a 13th century and 16th century O’Donovan castles at Castle Eyre and Raheen.
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