THE Skibbereen area really is a very special destination for locals and visitors alike.
Visitors will be spoiled for choice from the beautiful beaches, easy to get to islands, water-based activities, cultural and historical places of interest, breath-taking scenery, magnificent walks, safe outdoor spaces and a vast array of cafés, restaurants, pubs and shops all selling local produce.
Here is our list of things to see and do in Skibbereen and the local area, including Baltimore, Leap, Glandor, Union Hall, Castletownshend, Ballydehob, Schull and Mizen Head.
This article originally appeared in our bumper Things to See and Do guide for West Cork in 2023. You can read the full guide via our ePaper at southernstar.ie/epaper
1. NATURE
Lough Hyne is a truly magical place and a ‘must-see’ on any visitor’s list. It is the only inland saltwater lake in Europe, and it is also Ireland’s first Marine Nature Reserve. Nestled in a fold of hills, just 5km south west of Skibbereen, off the Baltimore Road, it is a popular swimming and kayaking lake, with temperatures slightly above that of the sea.
The woodland walk up the nearby Knockomagh Hill offers fantastic views over the lake, Cape Clear, Sherkin Island and beyond. That vantage point is frequently featured in social media posts as there’s an amazing sense of achievement having climbed the pathway to the top (approx 40 mins on easy-medium terrain), not to mention the incredible, 360 degree vista.
If you’re looking for something easier, but equally beautiful, there’s the almost entirely flat, tree-lined, lakeside walk to Barlogue pier and back.
2. HERITAGE
Skibbereen’s dual purpose Heritage Centre is the perfect jumping off point for people who want a comprehensive introduction to the delights of the Lough Hyne nature reserve. It is also home to The Great Famine Commemoration Exhibition, which has earned rave reviews of its tens of thousands of annual visitors. Located in the award-winning, beautifully restored old gasworks building on Upper Bridge Street, the centre is now open six days a week – Monday through Saturday from 10am to 6pm with last admissions at 5pm – but please be advised that pre-booking is essential at www.skibbheritage.com.
Here you will find an excellent audio-visual documentary on the history, formation and folklore of Lough Hyne, plus underwater footage showing some of its plant and animal life. The famine exhibition explains how Skibbereen was very badly affected, losing up to a third of its population to hunger, disease and emigration during the great famine of the mid 1800s.
The staff at the centre can also be credited with creating a Skibbereen Walking Trail App, ‘Skibbereen: The Famine Story’, which guides the walker through the sites and stories in Skibbereen using the voices of the era. The Oscar-winning actor and local resident Jeremy Irons is just one of those to have lent his vocal talents to this project and it can be downloaded as part of the admission price to the centre.
3. BE INFORMED
The tourist office run by Skibbereen and District Chamber of Skibbereen opened in March this year and will be operating six days each week until late September. The manager Cian O’Mahony will only be too delighted to help you plan your visit to Skibbereen and the surrounding area. Just pop in or call him on 028 21489. Be sure to stock up on leaflets about all the local places of interest too, and when you are there why not purchase a Skibbereen Town Voucher too. They are also available at Abbey Furniture and Violette on Bridge Street and Main Street respectively.
4. KAYAKING
For a truly unforgettable water-borne experience, try a moonlight kayaking trip with the multi award-winning Atlantic Sea Kayaking, or one of their daytime nature and wildlife tours off the wonderful West Cork coast, or even a seaweed foraging tour for something completely different! For more go to www.atlanticseakayaking.com.
5. HISTORY
Deserving of a category all of its own, the genealogy service at Skibbereen Heritage Centre has become a huge resource as people try and trace their West Cork ancestors. It is available online at www.skibbheritage.com, where you will find fully searchable databases that includes a graveyard survey, loan fund records, tithe books, estate records and a townlands database. Go to www.skibbheritage.com, or phone 028 40900 for more information or to book a consultation.
6. FASTNET
Most visitors to West Cork make it a priority to see the majestic Fastnet Rock and lighthouse. Known as the ‘Teardrop of Ireland’, in years gone by it was often the last thing people saw as they emigrated from Ireland to America. Easily spotted along the Mizen Peninsula, it beckons sailors and landlubbers alike. 2021 marked the 100- year anniversary of the famous raid on the lighthouse by members of the West Cork Brigade of the IRA during the War of Independence. A brave group embarked on this dangerous night-time mission in a small fishing boat to capture explosives stored there.
This year Cape Clear Ferries has added a new 200-passenger fast ferry to its fleet and the Carrig Aonair will take people around the iconic lighthouse. The Fastnet tour has been named among the top tours in Ireland by National Geographic and has topped the bill as an outstanding West Cork maritime tourism experience. The journey also provides a good opportunity to see some magnificent sea creatures such as whales and dolphins. For more information check out www.FastnetTour.com.
7. MARKET
No visit to Skibbereen would be complete without a visit to the open-air farmers’ market, which takes place in the old mart yard on Saturday mornings. Here, you can purchase a huge range of local produce including fruit, vegetables, fish, meat, herbs, freshly baked breads and pastries, cheeses, honeys and jams as well as a massive range of craft products, and beautiful art work too. Lots of people are happy to go and queue at one of the delicious fresh coffee stalls, or to snack on crepes, breakfast baps, or brioche. On a good summer’s day, you can also be sure that there will be a talented busker or two keen to entertain the crowds gathered around the picnic tables.
8. FAMINE
The Skibbereen area was one of the worst affected by the Great Famine of 1845- 1852. It is at Abbeystrewry, on the Schull to Skibbereen road, that the mass graves of between 8,000 and 10,000 famine victims can be found. This lonely plot bears testament to the tragic consequences of the catastrophic failure of the potato crop in the area during the 1840s when the whole island of Ireland and particularly the West was decimated through famine and emigration. The tragedy is marked by a commemorative sculpture at the graveyard.
9. CYCLING
Fáilte Ireland consistently ranks Skibbereen as one of the ‘top three cycle hub towns’ in Ireland. Bike hire facilities and cycle maps are available in the town centre and there are a range of local cycle routes for all skill levels, with many of them on the quieter secondary roads, taking in some stunning coastal and countryside scenery.
10. BLUEWAY
The Ilen river, which flows through Skibbereen, is a designated Blueway so if you feel like exploring it yourself pick up a brochure locally for details of paddling trails. Please take the necessary precautions before taking to the water and check the weather forecast, tides and always use the proper floatation devices. Always let someone know where you are going and what time you expect to return. In case of emergency call 112 or 999.
11. FISHING
There’s a wide variety of locations and all types of fishing on offer in and around the Skibbereen area. Many of the local coastal villages offer sea fishing options. For fishing closer to Skibbereen itself, you could not do better than Shepperton Lakes, which are located two miles east of the town, just off the main N71. The lakes are stocked with rainbow and brown trout as well as pike, and a state-of-the-art wheelchair accessible fishing platform was constructed there recently, allowing all-comers to enjoy the bountiful fishing in Shepperton. Permits are available locally, just look for the sign on the N71 road.
Meanwhile, mackerel fishing, which is great fun for young and old alike when the tide is in, is always an option from mid to late summer. Check out Glandore Pier, Union Hall Pier or Sandy Cove for a spot of sea fishing but please be very careful, check the weather, tides and get local advice re safe locations/hazards first. The River Ilen is a medium-sized spate river about 21 miles long, and flows through some of the most beautiful scenery in West Cork. A large part of the river is managed by the River Ilen Anglers’ Club based in Skibbereen. Check locally in Countryside Sports on Townshend St for details.
12. BEACHES
Two of the most popular local beaches include the Blue Flag beach of Tragumna and nearby Tralispean. Both beaches are safe and child-friendly with Tragumna having the added bonus of public toilets. The visit this year of ‘Harry’ the whale has made Tragumna more popular than ever as people watch, from a safe distance, as it surfaces to feed. Further afield towards Mizen Head you will find Barleycove (pictured), which is amongst Ireland’s most beautiful beaches with lovely golden sand and is also home to a surf school and a hotel.
13. ISLANDS
Want to know what island life is like? Then pick a destination – Cape, Sherkin, Heir, Bere, Whiddy, Dursey or Long Island – and book a ferry trip to find out. A trip to this part of the world simply is not complete without visiting one or more of the beautiful, inhabited islands off the coast.
The Irish-speaking island of Cape Clear, population around 130, is the most southerly inhabited Irish island, while Sherkin is home to a historic Franciscan Friary and the ruins of an O’Driscoll clan castle, both of which date back to the 14th century, and it has some lovely beaches too. Heir Island has a population of around 20 and also enjoys some lovely sandy beaches as well as a pizzeria and sailing school, while Long Island now offers wild camping and food at Castaway East.
But there’s nothing to rival the cable car journey to Dursey Island. It is unique in the country. The cable car closed for repairs over summer 2022 but work was carried out to ensure its safe reopening for the 2023 summer season. Whiddy has seriously upped its game by opening a visitor centre, hostel, and the reopening of the pier-side bar and restaurant. There is also a magnificent new community centre that is used for meetings, classes, courses, community get-togethers and can even be hired for private functions.
Meanwhile, Bere Island is steeped in history and has some of the nicest walking routes imaginable. Pre-booking for ferries is advised.
14. TOWN VOUCHERS
In operation since December 2020, the ‘Skibbereen Loves Local’ and ‘Shop Local’ voucher campaigns continue to prove popular. This initiative, run by Skibbereen and District Chamber of Commerce, is the perfect way to make shopping more convenient to visitors to West Cork this summer. Vouchers in denominations of €10s, €20s and €50s are available to purchase from Violette on Main Street and Abbey Furniture on Bridge Street and are also available to buy online (www.skibbereen.ie). They can be easily redeemed in a number of participating Chamber businesses within the locality.
15. GOLF
Located just 3km from the town, the Skibbereen and West Carbery Golf Club is open to everyone, but pre-booking, on 028 21227, is essential. The 18-hole, 5,967yrd course is set against the backdrop of some stunning views of the surrounding countryside and the 19th hole – the clubhouse – is a great place to unwind afterwards. Lessons by Sarah Claridge and Kieran Lynch are also available on a daily basis, but they too must be pre-booked.
16. ARTS AND MUSIC FESTIVALS
This year sees the return of a full programme for the annual Skibbereen Arts Festival. This year’s programme, which runs from July 26th to August 5th, is available on the festival’s new website: www.skibbereenartsfestival.com. The festival will have the usual mix of music, theatre, film, visual arts and spoken words, as well as a street party and much more.
Martha Wainwright, the Canadian singer-songwriter will be one of the headline acts at this year’s festival. Vintners in Skibbereen are organising a return of the popular Soul and Blues Festival. This year’s festival will take place on Friday August 18th, Saturday August 19th and Sunday August 20th. There will be a big line-up including Two Time Polka, the American rhythm and blues singer Buck Taylor, Dago Red from Italy and 16 Tones of Jive.
17. LOOPS & TRAILS
A project organised by Skibbereen Tidy Towns has outlined three interlinked loop walks – the Abbey Loop, the Rock Loop and the Compass Loop – around the historic market town of Skibbereen.
These walks begin at the Heritage Centre, and visit the town’s historic sites and offer panoramic views of the town and Ilen River estuary. For more information call into the Tourist Office or the Heritage Centre. Meanwhile, Fastnet Trails has created a series of scenic walks of varying lengths over an 80km stretch between Lisheen and Schull. A ramble along these mostly tarmac backroads and the old green Butter Road offers the walker a unique tapestry of landscapes and seascapes.
The ease and comfort of the routes allow walkers to enjoy the abundant flora and fauna and connect with the past as they pass medieval castles, churches and old burial grounds. Brochures of each of the eight walks – which start from four different Trailheads along the Mizen Peninsula – are available locally. These walks are not strenuous, but they vary in length, so be sure to choose a route that is age and time appropriate.
18. SEA ANGLING
If the thrill of deep-sea fishing is your thing, charter boats and fishing trips run out of Union Hall, Baltimore and Schull. Due to the fact that the seas around these parts are warmed by the Gulf Stream, you will find a wide variety of game fish such as cod, skate, pollack, blue shark, tuna and bass.
19. FITNESS FACILITIES
Every town in the country now offers exercise facilities ranging from outdoor workstations to sports pitches and fully-equipped gyms. Skibbereen is no exception. The sports and fitness centre – at P81PF56 – has a fully- equipped gym, but it also has an exercise studio and a magnificent sports hall. The centre also boasts astro-turf facilities for outdoor soccer and basketball, both of which can be booked by walk-in clients. The centre – phone 028 22624 – is open from 8am to 9.30pm from Monday to Friday and from 9am until 5pm on Saturdays, and Sundays are from 9am until 3pm, which makes it a fantastic resource for visitors looking to maintain their fitness regime during their holidays.
20. HISTORY FESTIVAL
The 2023 History Festival programme at its new location –the beautiful Inish Beg estate off the main road to Baltimore – will run for the weekend of August 11th to 13th. This year, it has two main themes, firstly a focus on the Irish Civil War and the Decade of Centenaries and secondly Munster and Ireland’s mercantile connections in the 18th century, notably the trade and consumption of wine but also the Atlantic slave trade.
On Saturday August 12th it will focus on the Irish Civil War, with speakers including Professor Robert Gerwarth, Dr Eve Morrison, Dr Edward Burke, Professor Caitríona Beaumont and Dr Nicholas McDowell. On Saturday evening they will have the now traditional Festival concert, arranged by the festival’s long-term collaborator, local composer and musician Jessie Kennedy. Sunday morning, there will be a panel discussion on the Decade of Centenaries with some of the speakers from Saturday’s programme.
On Sunday afternoon speakers will include Professor David Dickson, Dr Tara McConnell, Dr Patricia McCarthy and Professor Charles Ludington to discuss 18th century Ireland’s international trading connections. There will be a focus on wine, both its trade and its consumption, and it is hoped to organise a wine tasting featuring ‘Wine Geese’ wines. The topic of Ireland’s involvement in the Atlantic slave trade will also be on the agenda. The festival field trips are back on Friday and early morning Saturday and Sunday of the Festival weekend. They will include guided tours of Castletownshend and Ballydehob, historically- themed kayaking with Atlantic Sea Kayaking and walks in the West Cork countryside with Gormú. Tickets are now on sale. For more information check the website (westcorkhistoryfestival.org) or Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
21. RUNNING
There are all sorts of great running routes around the Skibbereen area. If you are looking for an easy, flat jog then why not take a ring-route around the town. But if you’d prefer something a little more challenging, then check out the woodland trails at nearby Rineen Wood, which is also the location for weekly 5km parkruns. If you fancy doing a parkrun, it is advisable to check www.parkrun.com or check locally in advance. For those looking to run on quiet country roads, please remember to wear high-vis clothing and take all the necessary precautions when it comes to traffic.
22. ROWING AND OLYMPIC EXCELLENCE
The Ilen river, which runs through Skibbereen, is home to the hugely successful Skibbereen Rowing Club. The club was made famous on the international stage by the 2016 Olympic Games silver medal-winning brothers Gary and Paul O’Donovan, and it has since hit greater heights – at the Tokyo Olympics in 2021 three Skibbereen rowers won medals, Paul O’Donovan and Fintan McCarthy with Ireland’s first Olympic rowing gold, while Emily. Hegarty won bronze. Other notable rowers over the years include Eugene and Richard Coakley, Timmy Harnedy, Shane O’Driscoll, Mark O’Donovan, Denise Walsh and Aoife Casey. World-famous rowing coach Dominic Casey is a key man behind the club’s and Ireland’s rowing success. The club is located just a couple of kilometres outside Skibbereen on the river road going to Old Court and Baltimore. See www.skibbereenrowingclub.com for more details.
23. WHALES AND DOLPHINS
The arrival of Harry the 45ft humpback whale at Tragumna was one of the highlights of the year so far. Hundreds flocked Tragumna (about 7km outside Skibbereen) to watch as it came extremely close to the shore to feed. The activity in local waters has been lively this year and business on whale watching tours has been brisk as a result. But it is not just humpback whales, the seas around West Cork attract a diversity of wildlife including minke, fin and humpback whales, common dolphins and harbour porpoises.
Occasional sightings of killer whales occur, whilst Atlantic white-sided dolphins, common and grey seals can be seen throughout the year. Excursions give people the opportunity to see turtles and blue sharks, while basking sharks (which can grow up to 10m in length) are very common. Trips usually last around four hours and depart from various harbours and piers in the area. In high season, booking is essential as the tours fill up fast!
24. LIBRARIES
The abolition of fees and an expanded range of services – including the loan of a wide range of books, audiobooks and DVDs for children, teenagers and adults – has renewed interest in the library service in recent years. The fact that you can now borrow from one library and make a return in a different library means it has got to be on staycationers list of things to do especially as there are so many to choose from including Bandon, Bantry, Carrigaline, Castletownbere, Clonakilty, Dunmanway, Kinsale, Macroom, Cape Clear, Schull, Sherkin and Skibbereen. Each library also offers a collection of reference books, including a local history collection, for use within the library. In addition, there are E-books, E-audio books and E-magazines that are also available to library members. Libraries also offer access to free internet on one of the ‘in-house’ computers – ideal for research while you’re in the area.
25. PLAYGROUND AND SKATEPARK
Skibbereen has long had a popular children’s playground (located on the right as you head into town from the Cork/Leap side). In recent years however, it has gone ‘up a notch’ with the addition of a state-of-the-art skatepark. Used by younger children on their bikes and scooters and older children and teens on their skates and skateboards, it has proven hugely popular since its completion. This park area on Cork Road is also home to a range of outdoor gym equipment as well as tennis and basketball courts.
26. LUDGATE
Skibbereen’s famous Ludgate Digital Hub is a state-of-the-art co-working office space at Townshend Street in Skibbereen. To book a hot desk or private office space please visit www.ludgate.ie/book- a-hot-desk/. The Hub has a 1GB Internet connection, free tea and coffee, and a great working atmosphere. Access is available from 9am to 6pm, Monday to Thursday, and from 9am to 5pm on Friday. The hub also offers five meeting rooms and two phone booths that can be rented hourly and daily. This summer Ludgate Education, in partnership with ESB and Coder Dojo, will be hosting a STEM summer camp running the week of 10th July and July 17th. The LEGO Robotics camp engages students through playful learning activities to think critically and solve complex problems, regardless of their learning level. The Robotics camp is for 8 to 14-year-olds using LEGO Education WeDo 2.0 and SPIKE Prime kits. In autumn, Ludgate will run its female returnee program Launchpad designed to support women in West Cork who wish to return to work. For further information go to www.ludgate.ie.
27. WALKING
West Cork has great opportunities for walking and Skibbereen Walking Group (SWG) is one of several groups and clubs offering walks in the area. Walks are advertised on the SWG Facebook page, skibbereenwalkinggroup.com and in the Skibbereen notes page in The Southern Star. At the end of September, Skibbereen and District Chamber of Commerce will hold its annual Skibbereen Walking Festival, which is now in its eighth year and will feature eight walks. Although the festival – which runs this year from Friday September 22nd to Sunday 24th – is based in Skibbereen, the majority of the walks promote neighbouring districts. The walks showcase some of the best scenery on West Cork’s Wild Atlantic Way and always features an excursion to one of the islands.
28. ADVENTURE RACE
Skibbereen Charity Adventure Race (SCAR) will mark its 10th anniversary on Saturday October 21st. Organised by Skibbereen Lions Club, the adventure race has generated €250,000 over the years, 100% of which has been used to support a diverse range of local charities and causes. There are three levels for people to participate in. The Taster category over 23km involves a 6km run and a 17km cycle. The Sport category is more challenging as it covers a distance of 58.5km that involves a 13km run, a 44km cycle and a 1.5km kayak. The expert is in another category altogether as the 82.5km distance makes it part of the national adventure race series, which is broken down into a 22km run, a 59km cycle and a 1.5km kayak. To enter visit www.thescar.ie. See Facebook for more info, or if you’d like to volunteer as a marshal, email info @thescar.ie or call 086 8543591.
29. PIRATES AND FAIRIES
Inish Beg is a 97-acre organic estate on an island in the Ilen Estuary on the way to Baltimore from Skibbereen. It is famous for hosting weddings and important local events. It has been voted one of the best gardens in Ireland and is popular because of its innovative trails for adults and children too. The latest is the Presidents of Ireland trail that is aimed at adults, but the children love visiting because they are given maps to search for pirates and fairy houses. They can also search for native animals as part of the three trails at Inish Beg estate. Each of the trails challenges children to find and name the animals and characters featured on their map and they are given a reward for completing them successfully. inishbeg.com.
30. ARTS
An incredible resource in the heart of Skibbereen town is Uillinn: West Cork Arts Centre. This year’s summer programme includes the group exhibition by Uillinn West Cork Arts Centre Members and Friends which showcases work by artists from across West Cork and beyond at all stages of their careers. Submission is open to the many artists who subscribe to their membership and friendship schemes. Including paintings, drawings, sculpture, photography, print and mixed-media works. The exhibition offers an opportunity for many to exhibit in a professional arts venue for the first time and offers visitors a chance to see local artwork and even purchase one.
From July 29th to September 9th exhibition lucent is an exhibition of small works curated by artist David Quinn, involving eleven international artists - Niamh Clarke (NI), Vincent Hawkins (UK), Hiroyumi Hamada (JN), Tjibbe Hooghiemstra (NL), Jamie Mills (UK), Janet Mullarney (Ire), Helen O’Leary (Ire), David Quinn (Ire), Seamus Quinn (Ire), Sean Sullivan (US) and John Van Oers (NL). The arts centre has many other events, talks, workshops and opportunities for locals and visitors to engage with over the summer.
Entrance to Uillinn is free and many events throughout the year are also free. Please note the centre is closed Sundays and most Bank Holiday Mondays. For further details on all events check www.westcorkartscentre.com, follow on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, ring 028 22090 or simply call in.
BALTIMORE
31. BEACON
There are many stunning walks around Baltimore but no visit to the village would be complete without a walk to the Beacon. From The Cove, at the end of Baltimore village, take the winding road to the top of the hill, just making sure not to stand too close to the cliff edge because prevailing winds can pose a risk. Structures like the Beacon and signal towers like that at nearby Spain (a townland just outside Baltimore) were erected all around the Irish coast by the British in the early 19th century when they feared a European invasion. The panoramic view tells its own story. It also explains why this location is such a popular spot with photographers and artists. Just outside the harbour near the Beacon is a regular spot for sightings of whales, dolphins and basking sharks, so keep your eyes peeled!
32. SEA MEMORIAL
Visitors to Baltimore should check out the ‘heart of the sea’ memorial adjacent to the harbour master’s office (just near the south pier where the ferries dock). The work of art by Helen Walsh and Paddy McCormack not only honours the heroism of the RNLI’s life-saving volunteers, it also honours the memory of all those who have been lost to the sea. The Croí na Mara work of art is in copper, bronze and stainless steel and ties into all the elements. People can look out to sea through the heart which is made in the shape of two waves meeting at the top.
33. BALTIMORE RINGFORT
Baltimore Community Council Ringfort Subgroup Committee has been established to work on a long term project to clear and preserve a ringfort at Church Strand in Baltimore. Archaeologist Tony Miller speculated that the Baltimore Ringfort could actually be something much rarer than the typical ringfort – he surmised that it might actually be a Bronze Age fort dating from around 2000BC.
34. BALTIMORE MARKET
Baltimore Community Market, a new initiative encouraging sustainability, has been launched in Baltimore village. Hosted in Baltimore Community Hall, this market runs every Sunday from 11am till 2pm with a real focus on local produce and producers of the area. The market hosts a variety of fresh produce and crafts, and is suitable for all the family.
35. ON THE WATER
Baltimore is renowned for all sorts of water-based activities from sea safari trips where you could see anything from seals and dolphins to huge whales, trips to the iconic Fastnet Rock or one of Carbery’s Hundred Isles, diving expeditions, kayaking and perhaps most notably of all, sailing. Baltimore Sailing Club is one of the most successful in the country and hosts a huge calendar of events throughout the year and particularly during the summer season. Enquire locally or see www.baltimoresailingclub.ie for more info.
36. WILD ATLANTIC POOL
Baltimore’s community swimming pool – the Wild Atlantic Pool – is open to locals and tourists alike and is a noted attraction on The Wild Atlantic Way. An eco-friendly heating system keeps the water at a comfortable 30 degrees Celsius. If you want a bit more heat there’s the sauna and steam room. There is also a well-equipped gym on site. Over the summer, there will be various fitness options including a weekly jog to the Beacon combined with a gym and swim. There are also swim camps for the kids and, on rainy days, ‘inflatable madness.’ For the more sedate, Shane the gym manager, will be running Active Plus on Fridays at 10am. Weekly schedules available on Facebook. For more information visit the website baltimorepool.ie or call 028 20622.
37. TAP-ROOM AND TOURS AT WEST CORK BREWING
West Cork Brewing, located at Casey’s of Baltimore, brews hand-crafted beers influenced by its idyllic location. Every Saturday at 4pm there are guided tours which allow visitors to sip fresh summer brews, such as Cape Haze, Sherkin Lass and Beacon of Hops. Guests can pair the tasting with seasonal seafood tasters from Casey’s menu. The beer and tasting plate costs €20. Phone 083 4156186 for bookings.
38. TWITCHERS
The book ‘The Natural History of Cape Clear 1959 to 2019’ – by Steve Wing, the warden of Cape Clear Bird Observatory explains why Cape Clear is one of the best spots in Europe to see American vagrant birds. Species that fly from North America to South America for the winter get caught up in the hurricane systems and get blown across the Atlantic. It is because Cape Clear is one of the first landfalls that makes it a resting place for birds and a mecca for birdwatchers. The island’s observatory – which is run by BirdWatch Ireland – is the only full-time bird observatory in the whole of Ireland, and is attracting more visitors every year. Birdwatch Ireland organises regular walks in the region, and sometimes day trips include picnic days out for all the family. For further details see www.birdwatchirelandwestcork.ie
39. WALKS
Visitors may wish to sign up for one of the Heritage Walking Tours of Baltimore. Starting at Baltimore Castle, the seat of the O’Driscoll Clan, take a leisurely stroll around the historical village of Baltimore with former Clan Chieftain Paul O’Driscoll. During the one and a half hour tour, you will learn about the history of the area, with stories of the village from pre-historic settlements to modern times.
Highlights include a look at Christianity which pre-dates St Patrick, the 800-year history of Baltimore Castle from 1215 and details of its restoration which was completed in 2005, a look at the O’Driscoll Clan and their international adventures, piracy and the graphic details of the Sack of Baltimore in 1631, the fishing industry through the ages and stories of internationally acclaimed residents and their connection to Baltimore. Booking is required – ask locally or enquire at the castle.
40. BALTIMORE CASTLE
Baltimore Castle, also known as Dún na Séad, is a privately owned 13th century Hall House on the Wild Atlantic Way. Built by the Normans in 1215, it is located in the heart of the historical fishing village of Baltimore, West Cork. Throughout the ages the castle has a long history of interesting owners and occupiers including the original Norman settler Sleynie, the local O’Driscoll clan and the infamous Fineen the Rover, the Spanish Crown, Cromwellian forces as well as many others. Patrick and Bernie McCarthy acquired Baltimore Castle in 1997 when it was in a state of ruin and lovingly restored it over the course of eight years. It has been their home since 2005. Baltimore Castle is open to the public throughout the summer. Visitors can learn about the history of the castle and see first-hand the results of the amazing restoration works. A new feature, added last year, is the coffee dock in the garden.
BALLYDEHOB | SCHULL
41. DANNO
When in Ballydehob, don’t forget to check out the Danno O’Mahony statue in the heart of the village. Danno is probably Ballydehob’s most famous son. Long before the likes of Conor McGregor, he was a wrestler who famously won the NWA world title in Boston on June 30th, 1935. With an incredible physique and huge strength Danno was known as the ‘Irish Whip’ in celebration of his famous throwing technique and one of the local pubs carries the same name.
42. 12-ARCH BRIDGE
As you enter Ballydehob from the Skibbereen side, you will see a spectacular 12-arch stone viaduct that is a relic of the West Carbery tramway and light railway. The bridge formed part of a narrow-gauge railway line that ran from Skibbereen to Schull, a line that was opened in September 1886, but never really made a profit. Sadly, it was closed in December 1945 leaving us with this enduring reminder.
43. OUTDOORS
Ballydehob and Schull are wonderful places for walking and cycling at any time of the year. The Fastnet Trails are a series of scenic walks for families and enthusiasts close to the coast of Roaring Water Bay, covering a total distance of 80km, from Lisheen in the east to Schull in the west. There are Trailheads at Lisheen, Kilcoe, Ballydehob and Schull. These walks are not strenuous, but as their lengths vary, choose a route to suit age and time available.
44. TOURIST INFORMATION
Ballydehob is fortunate to have Bank House, the former AIB bank, which was bought by the Community Council, and is now used as a tourist office, as well as a community centre. Bank House also features an art museum and that is well worth an hour of anyone’s time because it sets out how Ballydehob became a creative hub for West Cork in the 1970s.
45. PLANETARIUM
Since 1989, Schull Planetarium has been giving educational, fun and informative science shows to the general public. You are invited to visit the hemispherical dome with an amazingly realistic and accurate reproduction of the star-studded sky. www.schullplanetarium.com
46. PLAYGROUND
Ballydehob is blessed to have a truly wonderful playground that is served by a spacious car park, and located safely off-road under the magnificent 12-arch bridge. It even has a few magical and mystical creatures dotted around the site!
47. MARKET
Every Sunday, from 10am until 2pm, during the summer season you can visit the renowned Schull Country Market and be delighted by the array of locally produced goods from food, crafts, home bakes, pottery, paintings, jewellery, coffee, takeaways and much more. All of the stallholders live within a forty-mile radius of Schull, so you can be sure that what you choose really is local and you get to actually meet the people who grew, produced, baked and made the products.
48. STAR WARS
The Mizen Peninsula, and Brow Head in particular, temporarily formed part of a ‘galaxy far, far away’ when scenes from the Star Wars movie were filmed there. Locals and fans alike were thrilled to feel the ‘Force’ when none other than Luke Skywalker himself – Mark Hamill – and co-star Daisy Ridley flew into Cork and spent time in West Cork for the filming.
49. MOUNT GABRIEL
At 407m, this has to be the highlight for walkers. The fact that it is the highest summit in the area means the top of the hill is used by the Irish Aviation Authority to house their transatlantic radar equipment, hence its two iconic ‘spheres’. You can walk or you can drive to the top to enjoy the spectacular views, but drivers are advised to proceed with caution.
50. WATER SPORTS
The Fastnet Marine and Outdoor Education Centre is a certified sailing and water sports centre located on the water’s edge in stunning Schull Harbour. It has already set out its calendar of sailing and multi-activity adventure courses and it is also planning some new sea kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding opportunities. Catering for all sailing requirements including dinghy courses, day sails, keelboat courses, coaching etc, it also offers powerboat courses. Come along with all the family and you are guaranteed an action-packed and fun-filled experience. See www.schullsailing.ie. Schull Sea Safari offers a unique experience of West Cork and its islands from the sea. Its departure points, Schull and Colla Pier offer an unparalleled gateway to the Atlantic and the West Cork Islands for kayaking, whale watching and leisure trips in Roaring Water Bay. See www.schullseasafari.ie. SKS, Sea Kayaking in Schull, is a family-run business offering sea kayaking tours, kids camp and family fun sessions. Pre-booking is essential. See www.facebook.com/SeaKayakingSchull.
51. MIZEN
The Mizen Head Signal Station and Café is well worth a visit. It offers three experiences in one: the Visitor Centre in the Irish Lights Signal Station, the 99 Steps and the Famous Arched Bridge. The views of the South and West Coasts are stunning, and there are souvenirs and sustenance to be had from the café and shop.
52. BEACHES
There are plenty of beaches to choose from in and around Schull, all within walking distance. Cadogan’s Strand which is a green flag beach, and many other little coves all along the west side of Schull Harbour. Or you may prefer to swim in the pool in Schull Harbour Hotel after taking the children to the refurbished playground across the road.
CASTLETOWNSHEND | LEAP | GLANDORE | UNION HALL
53. DROMBEG
Drombeg Stone Circle is one of the most visited megalithic sites in Ireland. The site, which is also known as The Druid’s Altar, is a small axial stone circle located about 2km from the centre of Glandore village and can be included as part of a fantastic loop walk.
54. ALPACA WALK WEST CORK
Recharge your spirit with a scenic coastal alpaca walk! Meet these fluffy, gentle animals and lead one yourself on a guided walk along the coast with lovely views from Galley Head to Toe Head, meeting other animals like sheep, lambs, horses and hens along the way. There are three programmes daily: ‘Walk to the Beach’ at 11 am (a 2-hour programme); ‘Easy Stroll’ at 2pm (1 hour) and ‘Meet & Greet’ at 3pm, a 30-minute programme. Booking is essential. For more info and to book in, just ring, text or whatsapp Benjamin on +353(0)830670776 or email [email protected]. For further details and prices on all programmes visit www.awwc.ie.
55. ARCHAEOLOGY
There are lots of archaeological sites in the area, such as ringforts, a souterrain and a lime kiln in Ballincolla townland, plus the remains of a 13th century and 16th century O’Donovan castles at Castle Eyre and Raheen.
56. AMENITY PARK
Leap amenity park is worth a visit just for the spectacular view it offers along the estuary alone. The recently developed area, which features a community garden, seating area, and a viewing platform that is fully wheelchair and buggy- accessible. The facility first took shape when Leap resident, the late Michael Crowley, came up with the idea that the council should purchase a piece of land at the head of the Union Hall Estuary from the Sacred Heart Missionaries at Myross Wood.
57. CHURCHES
There are two churches in Castletownshend village, both called St Barrahane’s – one a Catholic church located a mile from the village centre, and a Church of Ireland, which is located at the bottom of the hill in the village. The latter is famous for having not one, but two, Harry Clarke stained glass windows, which are a major tourist attraction in their own right. The church is accessible seven days a week. While you are there check out the historic graveyard, which includes the burial plot of Edith Sommerville and Martin Ross, authors of ‘The Irish RM’. There’s also a mass grave for victims of the Lusitania tragedy in the graveyard, and an oar from the ship’s lifeboat is on display inside the door of the church.
58. UNION HALL WALKWAYS
There are some beautiful walks around Union Hall, suitable for varying abilities. The Village Heritage Walk is 2.9km and takes in the village, Causeway, Keelbeg Harbour and the pier. The Lake Walk is 7.6km, leaving the Causeway and climbing the steep hill after the old Post Office, taking in views of Poulgorm Bridge and Rabbit Island, before visiting Carrighilly, once a fishing village of 700 inhabitants, and Lough Cluhir. There is also the 10.2km Three Island Walk, 12.5km Stags View Walk and 11.7km Reen Walk. See unionhallwalks.ie for full details.
59. MEMORIAL
When you are in Union Hall do take the time to visit the wonderfully sensitive memorial to the fishermen who lost their lives in the Tit Bonhomme tragedy in January 2012. Casualties at sea are not something that has defined this village, but its heroic response has. It is not for nothing that the people who supported the month-long search with homes and hospitality were presented with a People of the Year Award in September 2012.
60. ON THE SEA
It will come as no surprise that water-based activities are BIG in Union Hall, with local operators offering three to four-hour guided tours, with family kayaking adventures being a speciality. Whale watching and sea angling charters are some of the reasons that people continue to return to Union Hall time and time again. A number of these trips and tours depart from nearby Reen Pier – ask locally for details.
61. KNOCKDRUM
With well-signposted pedestrian access from the main Skibbereen Road into Castletownshend, the Knockdrum circular stone fort has to be seen to be believed. It’s no wonder the fort, pillar stone, souterrain, and cup-marked boulder on the side has been listed as a national monument. Almost 30m in diameter, and with walls that are three metres wide, it is a remarkable and freely accessible amenity. But it is its vantage point at the top of a hill and looking out over the sea that leaves an indelible impression. When you are there, be sure to look across the land, away from the sea, and you will see in the distance The Three Fingers, which is the reputed burial place of a druid. And an up-close inspection of that particular site will allow people to see the Ogham writing on the fingers.
62. CECAS AT MYROSS WOOD HOUSE
Cecas is West Cork’s Centre for Climate Action and Sustainability at Myross Wood House, located on the western side of Leap village. Set within 30 acres of spectacular grounds, including mature woodland, fields, formal gardens and coastal habitat, the centre aims to provide practical solutions to the challenges of climate change in the form of information, training and environmentally-themed events. A recent international conference on how communities can do their part for climate action and biodiversity was very well received. These include a zero-waste market on the last Wednesday of each month for most of the year. The grounds, open seven days a week, are maintained by an enthusiastic and committed group of volunteers and include a newly-restored woodland walk. Email [email protected] to book hot-desks with high-speed internet access, ideal for remote working. Information on accommodation and upcoming events can be found at www.cecas.ie, via the Cecas mailing list and on Facebook and Instagram (@cecas.ie).
63. GLANDORE GARDENS
The gardens in the middle of Glandore village are a tranquil oasis of peace and relaxation. Set on a hill, they overlook the harbour and during the summertime, there will always be something to watch on the water, whether it’s sailing boats, rowing boats, power boats, fishing trawlers or super yachts. You might even get lucky and see a dolphin or two. 2022 saw the unveiling of a memorial to local man Sean Hayes, West Cork’s first TD (member of the Irish parliament). Picnic tables and public toilets make these gardens an ideal spot to stop off for a break.
64. PARK
The Black Field right in the middle of the village of Union Hall is another major resource because it is open to the public. One of its attractions that might be of interest to children is its bug hotel, but there is also a park to walk around and play in, plus tennis courts, and two picnic tables where people can sit and enjoy some al fresco dining.
65. TREES
After ticking things off your to do list, take time to visit the two sycamore trees in the middle of Castletownshend. They have got to be the most unusual feature of any village in terms of their location, right in the middle of the road, and they are so highly thought of that one of the local distilleries has named a range of its spirits ‘Two Trees’ in their honour.
66. DROMILLIHY WOODS
Located just east of Leap on the road to Connonagh/Rosscarbery, Dromilihy is a gem hidden in plain sight. A 20-30 minute loop walk around this mature woodland will put you in form for anything, and the kids will love to spot and count the fairy houses along the way. The path is in very good repair overall but be prepared for a couple of short, steep, but very manageable inclines.
67. BRIDGE
Poulgorm Bridge, on the regional road to Glandore, Rosscarbery and Leap, is worth a holiday snap or two because it is only one lane wide, so traffic must wait for the bridge to be clear before crossing. The bridge, which was built in the 1890s, also famously featured in David Puttnam’s 1994 film, ‘War of the Buttons’.
This article originally appeared in our bumper Things to See and Do guide for West Cork in 2023. You can read the full guide via our ePaper at southernstar.ie/epaper
