Peeking behind Caspar, Balthasar, and Melchior in Harry Clarke’s nativity window in St Barrahane’s in Castletownshend is the violet head of a Friesian cow; the animals were first introduced to Ireland through the village by Edith Somerville, so the story goes.
The windows, as any of Clarke’s infamous work, are a natural draw in the church but are far from the only attraction in the building, which is 199 years old this year.
Whereas 52 stone steps lead the pilgrim from ground level up to the churchyard, mosaics on the floor were ‘lovingly installed’ within, says Reverend Canon John Arvis, giving The Southern Star a tour of the building on a foggy morning.
However, while elements of the building are well-preserved and the church is in good condition, recent planned work on the tower revealed unwelcome news of damage and issues with the roof, which means the community are now in the throes of raising about €50,000 for the repairs.
The Harry Clarke windows are a natural draw for many visitors to the church, but of no less curiosity is another stained-glass window depicting St Patrick and St George, the associated holy men of Ireland and of England side-by-side in what may be a unique example of anti-sectarianism.
At the foot of St George is the Victorian Cross, marking the memory of Lieutenant Neville Coghill who was one of the earliest men to receive the medal posthumously.
In the porch stands an oar from the SS Lusitania, which recalls the many who lost their lives in that act.

The building is not a static one, however, with a monthly service during the year and weekly during the summer.
An annual music festival is hosted in the church too in the summer months, while concerts continue throughout the year.
Canon Ardis notes that many of the greatest musicians had their start at the festival in Castletownshend, as the acoustics are ‘brilliant’ and indeed, there is no echo from either footsteps or voice, even though there are just two people in the church.
The works on the roof exceed €50,000, and a fundraiser has been established to meet the costs of the work.
Donations can be made by cheque or by bank transfer; there is a also a GoFundMe under the name ‘St. Barrahane’s Church Castletownshend Restoration Fund’.
For any other details, contact Canon John Ardis at [email protected].